You are learning constructive food criticism: you will read the scene it happens in, learn 10 words and phrases, take apart the pattern behind them (balanced criticism: praise + hedge + suggestion), hear them in a conversation, rehearse them, and finish by saying one thing out loud to be graded.
The editorial office of a Shanghai food magazine on Julu Road, drafting a balanced restaurant review
编辑给了我一个任务:去一家新开的本帮菜餐厅吃一顿,然后写一篇客观的评论。她说:「好的评论不是一味地夸,也不是一味地骂。要平衡。」
我去了这家餐厅。红烧肉做得确实可圈可点——颜色正,火候到位,肥而不腻。清蒸鱼也很新鲜,鱼肉嫩滑。整体而言,厨师的功力是有的。
但美中不足的是,甜品太单调了。就一个红豆汤圆,没有任何创意。而且摆盘比较随意,跟菜的水准不太匹配。如果能在甜品和摆盘上再花点心思,这家餐厅会更完美。
我写完评论给编辑看。她说:「瑕不掩瑜,你的评价很公允。先肯定优点,再指出不足,最后给建议——这就是好的美食评论的结构。有提升空间不是坏事,说明这家餐厅还有潜力。」